Barbacoa Beef Tacos with Two Sauces

4 large ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
4 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed
3 celery ribs, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
15 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
8 bay leaves
Six 1-lb., English-cut, bone-in beef short ribs
2 tablespoons dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Kosher salt
Pepper
Warm corn tortillas, cilantro sprigs, finely chopped white onion and lime wedges, for serving
Salsa Verde Cruda, for serving

BRAISE THE MEAT
Preheat the oven to 325°. In a medium skillet, toast the ancho chiles over moderate heat, turning, until pliable and charred in spots, about 2 minutes; let cool slightly, then tear into pieces.

BRAISE THE MEAT
In a large roasting pan, toss the ancho and chipotle chiles with the celery, carrots, onion, garlic and bay leaves. In a large bowl, toss the short ribs with the oregano, cumin and 2 tablespoons of salt. Arrange the ribs over the vegetables in the roasting pan. Add 2 cups of water to the pan, cover tightly with foil and braise in the oven for about 3 1/2 hours, until the meat is very tender.

MAKE THE CHILE SAUCE
Transfer the ribs to a baking sheet. Strain the braising liquid through a colander set over a heatproof bowl; skim off any fat. Discard the bay leaves and return the vegetables and chiles to the braising liquid. Working in batches, puree the vegetables and liquid in a blender until smooth. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

GRILL
Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Working in batches if necessary, grill the ribs over high heat, turning occasionally, until charred and crisp, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and, using two forks, shred the meat; discard the bones. Serve the barbacoa in warm corn tortillas with the sauce, cilantro, chopped onion, lime wedges and Salsa Verde Cruda.

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